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Thursday, November 19, 2009

Washes Over Thrice Fired Pots

Do not put a 50/50 Gerstley Borate and Frit 3134 wash over very dull, matt surfaces and fire them to 1888°F in a gas kiln hoping for better than previous results!
This does not work a'tall !!!

Wednesday, November 18, 2009

Glaze Combo

This is an awesome glaze combination at temps 2020°F electric oxidation firing.

50 Frit 3419
10 Neph Sye
5.5 Fireplace Ash
3 Lithium
9 EPK
14.7 Silica
5.4 Whiting
Plus:
1 Cobalt Carb
3 Lithium
2 Tin

Apply first, then apply the following glaze over this.

52.5 Frit 3124
9 Silica
14.7 EPK
4 Lithium
10.6 Zinc
7.8 Custer feldspar
5.4 Whiting
Plus:
1/2 Copper Oxide
2 Lithium
1/2 Cobalt Carbonate
2 Tin

Note: i measure in parts, using 1/8th teaspoon as a base measurement, so all of the above portions are in 1/8th tsp measurements.

Firing schedule:
200°F to 300°F
324°F to 1250°F
Full to 2000°F
Hold 15 minutes (see notes on this in previous post)
Full to 2020°F
Hold 20 minutes
Full to 900°F
Hold 40 minutes

Be aware: Both of these glazes run like crazy.
Note: by adjusting the tin oxide amounts in the additives, one can achieve different shades of blue yet with the same startling effects of the two glazes combined.


Ignore the outside of these pieces (these were all glaze tests and i usually try 3-4 per cup). Focus instead on the inside blues. Guess i oughta mention, ignore the quality of the photographs too!
For these are richly saturated blues with riverlets of blue, green, black and wee specks of pink adding a "richness" and depth to the overall finished glaze.
Happy glazing days to y'all
Chae

Sunday, November 15, 2009

Nother Glaze Database

Good Sunday Mornin' to y'all

If you're trying to find low-fire glaze recipes, this is an extremely useful database !!!
http://lindaarbuckle.com/handouts/glz_hg_lowfire.txt

Many thanks to Linda Aarbuckle, who has spent many hours compiling it !!!
She, also, has a raku recipe database. Just replace the word lowfire with raku in the address bar to reach it, then add it to your favorites list.

Way down towards the bottom of the list, there are some recipes for lustre glazes, too !!! Haven't tried them out yet but now that i can no longer find a source for Amaco Gold Lustre, will be attempting some of them in the near future.

Happy glazing days
Chae

Sunday, November 8, 2009

Glaze Worth Mentioning

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If you are working in the 2020°F glaze firing range, this glaze works well. It strongly resembles a "floating blue". The color is much more saturated and a richer blue than my photo shows.
It's a high Gloss where applied thick and doesn't run. Oxidized, electric firing.
Base Glaze:
52.5 Frit 3124
14.7 Silica
9 EPK
3 Lithium
7.6 Zinc
7.8 Cornwall Stone
5.4 Whiting
Plus:
2 Tin Oxide
2 Lithium (that's in addition to the 3 in the base glaze)
1/2 Cobalt Oxide

Note: i measure by parts. And use 1/8th tsp as a base measurement. Thus: 1/2 cobalt oxide would be: 1/2 of 1/8th tsp. Plus: i halved the above base recipe but didn't half the additives: tin, lithium and cobalt oxide.

I was seeking a pink. Spozedly lithium and cobalt oxide will produce a pink. But this didn't.
Still -- am quite pleased with the "floating blue". It's a keeper.
On the inside: Where applied thin, it's a steelish blue; the areas where 2+ coats were applied are the sections it "floated". Plus, (on the outside) where applied over a yucky chocolate brown glaze, it covered it well but the double-glaze is nothing to write home about.

Firing schedule:
200°F to 300°F
324°F to 1250°F
Full heat to 2000°F
Hold: 15 minutes
Full heat to 2020°F
Hold: 20 minutes
Full ramp speed drop to 900°F
Hold: 40 minutes

Explanation: the only reason the hold is between the 2000°F and the 2020°F, is because my Paragon kiln doesn't operate as it should and shuts itself off !!! Thus, i added an un-needed hold in order to coax it to reach 2020°F and this seems to work for this kiln. If i were firing a normal kiln, i would fire at full heat straight thru from the 1300 to the 2020°F. However, if my kiln operated correctly, i would be firing to Cone 6 !!! instead of recomputing all my glazes to the lower temp.
Chae

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Fiddlin' Around


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Have recently been teaching clay classes.
Decided that having a theme would move the classes along in a somewhat orderly progression.
Chose musical instruments.
Had already started this banjo as a model for the first class, when i realized, much to my dismay, that it surpassed the abilities of the enrolled age group.
So!
Have spent the last couple of weeks remodifying my game plan.
We're still doing musical instruments.
Just on a drastically more basic level.
Still, without the motivation of teaching classes, it would never have occurred to me to try and create a banjo !!!
The tuning pins were a bit of a logistics problem. But think i have this solved.
The next challenge is: how in the world to i prop this upright in the kiln? If it warps a'tall, i'll be in the soup.
Have a day or two to figure this out while the clay dries before bisque firing . . . .
Am just a'hopin and a'prayin that it survives both the bisque and glaze firings, and then, actually makes music !!!
Chae

Tuesday, October 20, 2009

Old Discovery Made Anew

Even the smallest amount of Dolomite will turn a glaze matte !!!

As y'all know, i've been trying to modify all my glazes to vitrify at 2020°F.
Soooo
Drew up a list of materials and oxide melting points. Dolomite's melting point is 1472°F. Now, silica's MP is on the high end of the scale at 3110°F. I was hoping that in the language of eutectics, the Dolomite would lower the melting point of the silica. Or some such thing. Actually, computed the formula a little more precisely than that.
But it's Dolomite that is the culprit here.
All 6 of the new glazes worked. But darn if they're not ugly.
An' didn't i use Dolomite in every one of them. To help bring the glaze melting point down, of course.

But even the smallest amount of Dolomite will turn a glaze surface matte . . . .
7.7 out of a 100 percent isn't very much, you know.
But just for future reference
If you want a glossy glaze
7.7% is too much.
It will give a Satin Matte glaze at best. Otherwise, just a plain ole stoney matte.
Chae

Wednesday, October 14, 2009

Trying to Understand Glazes and Gas Kilns

What can i tell you? That i don't understand gas kilns? Yep. That would be a true statement. Am i sorta getting a handle on it? Perhaps . . . .
Yesterday fired these pots under the assumption, that while i've never been able to get the Olympic Torchbearer 1827G to reach temps of 2167°F, it has consistently heated beyond temps of 2012°F. Since, both the electric and gas kilns seem to be in cahoots with each other, i've been trying to modify my cone 5-6 glazes to accomodate the kilns.

OK. Here's the scoop. Arranged the shelves in the kiln totally differently than previous attempts. Used 2 half shelves placed 3.5 inches from the bottom. Put 2 more half shelves on 10-inch posts and balanced them on the first set. Put the 4 bowls on these shelves. Then, balanced a full shelf on more 10-inch posts which placed it 4.5-inches from the top.
The air-intake valves were approximately 1/8th-inch from the closed position. The draft at the top was covered to approx. 1/3rd of the opening.

The first peephole would have been measuring heat of pots on the bottom half shelves (if any had been placed there). The second peephole measured the heat of the middle set of half shelves, and the third peephole measured the heat in the space above the top shelf. One should probably pay attention to these type of details before they fire a load. Me? I arranged the shelves and the pots. The hour was midnight and did i mention that i was already exhausted? Yesterday morning at 6am, as i fired the kiln, wondered why the pyrometer was giving me three different sets of readings: top peephole read 2150°F, middle read 2050°F, bottom read 2000°F. Which one of the three i should be paying attention to !!!
This morning, after removing the bowls, i measured both the shelf spaces and the peephole openings. An ounce of precalculation is worth a pound of cure, they say. But i lucked out.

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I should mention here, if you're gonna try out new glaze recipes, try not to concoct them when you're positively exhausted and your mind is laboring to overcome a dull, throbbing headache. It's not that you can't build a perfectly wonderful glaze computation which turns out swell and nicely vitrified !!! It's that after you have done so and fired them, you find you've forgotten to meticulously write down the ingredients in a logical and repeatable order!

So! To the best of my dead- (tired) reckoning, here is a recipe that will vitrify at temps between 2020°F and 2050°F:
Neph Sye = 10
Frit 3110 = 50
Bone Ash = 5.5
Magnesium = 3.1
Dolomite = 7.7
Lithium = 5.5
EPK = 5
Silica = 7
Talc = 6

xxxxxxxxxxxxxx The outside of this bowl has the above recipe (base) with 4 parts Zinc added. Let's call this: (#A). It's a satiny matte.

The inside glaze is a combination of the above recipe (base) with (#B) which has 4 parts Rutile and 1 part Red Iron Oxide added. Then, an additional overlay of the glaze (#A) with the zinc was added. It's super glossy and quite attractive in its own way.

Now . . . here comes the part about inadequate notes. A few days ago, fired a recipe high in manganese content trying to produce a lustre glaze. Fired 3 different bowls with 3 different amounts of manganese on the inside with different glazes on the outside. One had antimony; one had potassium dichromate. While all the glazes vitrified at 2020°F in the electric kiln (oxidation), they were not pretty. Dull matte surfaces. No lustre.
Naturally, i thought - well - they needed a reduction atmosphere. Put them in yesterday's firing. Since they were formulated for temps of 1999°F to 2020°F, most of the glaze surfaces boiled at 2050°F. Some did not, which is confusing in and of itself !!! But it's the color we're interested in here.
Note: On the bottom bowl: the potassium dichromate turned a putrid green in reduction. Not cool when in theory it was spozed to be an orangy-red.
The top bowl with the antimony on the outside turned ugly shades of gray sprinkled with white.
However !!!
The inside of this bowl which had been a dull metallic gray and originally glazed with:
Manganese = 36
Gerstley = 32
Lead Bisilicate = 20
Frit 3110 = 4
Red Art = 4
With the addition of Glaze recipe #A ( 4 parts Zinc) liberally brushed over the pre-fired surface and fired in reduction, turned glossy with rich red-highlighted tenmoku coloring !!!
This isn't the greatest picture of it; the one above shows the richness of color and glossiness better.
So! There you have it. Such as they are, notes on firing gas kilns and metallic lustres which didn't luster and cone 03 to cone 1 glazes which did vitrify, amidst notes on overlaying glazes.
If you're not ready to throw in the towel by now, stay with me. More notes on experimental glazes to follow when formulated and fired !!!
Chae